Make a pumpkin wall hanger using old wood siding or similar scrap wood from your wood pile. My fall decor has been created from a variety of old and recycled materials. I like the fact that I am keeping something out of the landfill and giving something old a new purpose. Besides, I think natural or rustic elements pull the harvest season together. This project is pretty much a freebie. You probably have most of the materials and supplies needed, but if you do need to buy something it will most likely only cost you pennies.
Things You Will Need:
Old wood siding
Jig saw or miter saw
Drill and 1/16-inch drill bit
Orange acrylic paint
Green acrylic paint
1 1/2-inch wooden star
Brown acrylic paint
Black acrylic paint
Rusty baling wire
Needle nose pliers
Cut an 8-inch length from old, weathered, wood siding using a jig saw or miter saw. My siding was 5 1/4-inches wide, but siding with broken edges can also be used. If siding is not available, thin paneling or old fence boards can be substituted. This will be your pumpkin’s body. From the same type of wood or paneling, cut a 2-inch wide by 3-inch long rectangle using a jig saw. This will be your pumpkin’s stem.
Lay the pumpkin body on your work surface. Rotate the pumpkin so that the short ends are at the top and bottom. Measure down a 1/2 inch from the top edge and in from the left 1 inch. Mark this measurement with a pencil. Measure down a 1/2 inch from the top and in from the right 1 inch. Mark the measurement. Drill through the marks using a 1/16-inch drill bit.
Paint both sides of the pumpkin body using orange acrylic paint. I like to paint the back of items that may be hung on a fence, peg, chair or some other perch where the back may be visible. Paint both sides of the stem using green acrylic paint. Paint additional coats for complete coverage. Allow the paint to dry. Sand the pieces to distress.
Lay the stem on your work surface with the back side facing up. Rotate the stem so that the short edges are at the top and bottom. Apply craft glue to the bottom 1 1/2 inches of the stem. Center the stem at the top center of the pumpkin, overlapping the end with the glue on the pumpkin’s front. Allow the remaining portion of the stem to extend above the pumpkin.
Paint a 1 1/2-inch wooden star using brown acrylic paint. Allow the paint to dry. Sand the star to distress. Apply craft glue to the back of the star. Place it on the front of the pumpkin, a couple inches above the bottom and off center.
Pour a small amount of black acrylic paint on a paper plate. Dip an old toothbrush in the paint. With the paint brush facing down, hold it over your pumpkin. Run your thumbnail over the bristles to splatter the paint onto the pumpkin’s surface. Repeat until the desired amount of splatter is reached. Allow the paint and glue to dry.
Cut a 15-inch length of rusty baling wire using wire cutters. Insert the ends of the wire through the drilled holes from the front of the pumpkin to the back. Pull the ends through approximately 2 inches. Bend the wire ends up and squeeze to secure using needle nose pliers. This is your hanger.
Add fall leaves and raffia tied around the stem for embellishments.
I made this project a few years ago and it is still one of my favorite fall decorations. The bike tire rim was found in a pile of childhood bicycle parts that my son was cleaning up. Old vines and leaves were tangled in it’s spokes. It almost looked like it was decorating the area. Giving it a closer inspection, I realized the structure and the spokes would be ideal for a decorative fall wreath.
The rim had the rusted axle and bolts still attached, so my husband supplied the muscle to remove them. I used a grease cutter to remove the icky oil inside the center hole of the wheel.
Unfortunately I just have the one finished photo of the wreath, but I think it will be enough for you to visualize the steps.
Paint both sides of the rim and the spokes using a brown or orange acrylic paint. I used an old paintbrush that I could pounce on the spokes. It actually gave the metal a textured surface that looked similar to rust, which was perfect for this project. Allow the paint to dry well or it will scrape off when decorating. Note: A spray paint could also be used, but the texture will be smoother.
Wind a 9-foot long fall garland around the rim. If your garland has decorative berries and flowers like mine, adjust the garland with the decorative elements on the front of the wreath. Weave the beginning and end of the wreath under the spokes to secure. Cut away excess garland if needed. My rim was 16 inches in diameter so 9 feet of garland was more than plenty.
Cut 1-yard of black netting in half lengthwise. Netting is usually about 72-inches wide. After cutting you will have two pieces 18-inches wide by 72-inches long. Scrunch the width of one length together and lightly wind halfway around the rim over the garland. Tuck the beginning and end of the netting under the vine of the garland to secure. Wind the remaining netting around the other half of the rim.
Gather several strands of raffia in your hands and tie into a bow. Cut a 6-inch length of craft wire using wire cutters. Thread the wire through the back of the raffia bow knot and tie the ends of the wire around the rim at the top of the wreath.
Places I’m partying this week:
Glass Christmas balls seem to be available at every yard sale. Since the price is right, I can’t help but buy them. With a little creativity, I discovered they could be transformed into decorations for other holidays. Restyle your ornaments into Halloween witch ornaments. Hang them from a black spray painted branch, give to teachers as gifts, or sell them at fall craft shows.
Things You Will Need:
White tissue paper
2-inch glass Christmas ball ornament
Lime green acrylic paint
Hot glue gun
Blush and cotton swab
Black acrylic paint
White acrylic paint
Black permanent marker
Gray curly doll hair
Embroidery needle and black floss
Apply decoupage medium to the surface of a 2-inch glass Christmas ball ornament using a paintbrush. Place the tissue paper over the medium and press it down with the paintbrush. This will give the ball a wrinkly texture. Perfect for the face of a witch. Allow the medium to dry.
Roll a 1/2-inch ball of polymer clay for the witch’s nose. Form the ball into a 3/4-inch-long cone shape. Bend the point of the cone to make a crooked nose. Roll a tiny bit of clay about the size of a BB. Press the small ball onto the side of the nose. Bake the clay in the oven according to the package directions.
Lay the covered Christmas ball on its side, on a surface that will prevent it from rolling. I used a candle holder. The side facing up will be the front of the witch head. Apply craft glue to the center front of the ball. Place the nose on the glue with the hook of the nose positioned downward. Allow the glue to dry.
Paint the entire head and nose using lime green acrylic paint. Allow the paint to dry.
Cut a paper plate into quarter pie shapes. One pie shape is the pattern for the cone of the witch’s hat. Using the pattern cut one pie shape from black felt. Using a compass, trace a 3 1/4-inch circle on card stock. Cut out the shape. This is the pattern for the hat brim. Cut one brim from black felt.
Cut an “X” in the center of the hat brim. Apply hot glue around the neck of the hanger on the Christmas ball. Place the hat brim over the neck. Roll the pie-shaped felt into a cone. Overlap 1 inch along the edge of the cone and hot glue to secure. Apply hot glue to the inside opening of the cone. Center the cone on top of the brim. Squish the cone down to secure. Fold the tip of the cone down to the brim. Secure with hot glue.
Apply blush to the cheeks using a cotton swab. Dip the blunt end of a skewer into black acrylic paint. Dot two eyes. Allow the paint to dry. Dip the pointed end of the skewer into white acrylic paint. Apply a dot in each eye. Using a permanent marker, draw a crooked smile.
Apply hot glue to the head, just under the brim. Tuck gray curly doll hair under the brim.
Rip a 1/2-inch-wide by 3-inch-long strip of muslin. Tie a knot in the center of the strip. Hot glue the strip to the hat. Hot glue a miniature plastic spider to the knot.
Using black embroidery floss and an embroidery needle, stitch through the top of the hat. Bring the two ends of the floss together with 4 inches of floss extending from each end. Tie the ends in a knot, 1 inch from the end.
Places I’m partying this week:
Vintage linens offer an unexpected fabric for new sewing projects. I especially love chenille bedspreads. I use them quite a bit in my craft designs, but I am often left with small scraps that I just can’t bring myself to toss. This primitive candy cane bowl filler is the perfect solution for putting those scraps to good use. Made with primitively appliqued stripes and exposed seams, this bowl filler works up very quickly.
Things You Will Need:
White chenille bedspread
Trace a candy cane shape on card stock that is approximately 1 1/2 inches wide by 7 inches tall. This measurement does not need to be exact. You can draw your shape free hand or enlarge a “J” from a favorite font on your computer and print it out. Cut out the shape. This is your pattern.
Lay a white chenille bedspread on your work surface with the wrong side facing up. Place the candy cane pattern on the chenille and lightly trace around it with a marking pen. This is the the back of the fabric, but the cane is sewn with edges exposed, so you will want to cut away the pen marks. Cut out the shape just inside the marked lines.
Cut six 1-inch-wide by 2 1/2-inch-long strips of red fabric.
Place the chenille candy cane on your work surface with the right side facing up. Place the red fabric strips across the width of the cane and spaced evenly from one end of the cane to the other. Pin the strips in place.
Top stitch the edges of the red strips across the width of the cane, as close to the edges as possible. Trim the ends of the strips even with the cane. This is the front of your candy cane bowl filler.
Cut out the shape using the front candy cane as your guide. Do not turn the cane. The side on the outside is the right side. Stuff the candy cane. Sew the end closed in the same way as the other edges of the candy cane.
For a variety of candy cane flavors, choose other colors to create the stripes.